Azelaic acid is a versatile compound that has gained recognition for its numerous benefits in skincare. Scientifically known as a saturated dicarboxylic acid with the formula HOOC(CH₂)₇COOH, azelaic acid naturally occurs as a white powder and is found in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. Beyond its role in skincare, this compound is utilized in industrial applications, including the production of polymers and plasticizers, and is a component in various hair and skin conditioners.
This compound is industrially synthesized through the ozonolysis of oleic acid, a process that also produces nonanoic acid as a byproduct. Azelaic acid is naturally produced on the skin by Malassezia furfur, a type of yeast that resides on healthy skin. Additionally, it is derived from the bacterial breakdown of nonanoic acid. While it can occur naturally on the skin, azelaic acid is also manufactured in laboratories and sourced from grains and cereals, making it a versatile and accessible skincare ingredient.
Azelaic acid stands out for its multifunctional properties. It is both comedolytic, meaning it prevents the formation of blackheads and other comedones, and keratolytic, effectively breaking down excess keratin that can clog pores. It also boasts anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, making it a valuable ingredient in addressing a variety of skin concerns.
Azelaic acid is available in various forms, including gels, foams, and creams, which cater to different application needs. For instance, the foam version is ideal for treating larger areas of the body, such as the back, while creams and gels are often used on more localized areas like the face. Regardless of the form, its benefits extend to addressing acne, hyperpigmentation, and rosacea.
In terms of efficacy, azelaic acid exfoliates gently yet effectively, penetrating deep into the pores to remove dead skin cells that can lead to dullness and clogged pores. It also fights acne by leveraging its antibacterial properties, specifically targeting Propionibacterium acnes, a key contributor to acne formation. Furthermore, azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, soothe irritation and improve the appearance of red bumps caused by inflamed skin.
One of its standout features is its ability to even out skin tone. By inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid helps diminish post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne and addresses conditions like melasma. Its gentle nature makes it suitable for sensitive skin, which is why it is often recommended for managing rosacea. It reduces pore blockages, calms inflammation, and addresses secondary infections associated with the condition.
Azelaic acid is also notable for being a safe option for pregnant individuals seeking treatment for acne, rosacea, clogged pores, or pigmentation. While generally well-tolerated, some users may experience mild irritation, such as stinging or tingling. In rare cases, severe side effects like swelling, difficulty breathing, or hives may indicate an allergic reaction and require medical attention.
For optimal results, azelaic acid should be applied to clean, dry skin, typically in a thin layer twice daily—morning and night. Those with sensitive skin are advised to start with everyday applications to minimize potential irritation. A pea- or marble-sized amount of the product is sufficient to cover the face and neck evenly, following cleansing.
Azelaic acid has earned its place as a mild yet effective skincare ingredient, suitable for a range of skin types and concerns. Its ability to target multiple issues simultaneously—such as breakouts, inflammation, uneven skin tone, and sensitivity—makes it a valuable addition to modern skincare routines.
