Salicylic acid is a plant hormone which was originally extracted from white willow bark (Salix alba). Its name comes from the Latin salix meaning willow tree. In plants, salicylic acid plays a major role in controlling plants’ innate immunity as well as influencing plant cell growth, respiration, and seed germination.
For its beneficial chemical and physical properties, salicylic acid has been widely used in medicine and other manufacturing industries. For example, for many years it has been a precursor for aspirin.
Salicylic acid can be found in a wide range of skincare products like cleansers, serums, and peels. Each formulation uses this ingredient in its unique way and targets different skin issues.
This active ingredient is classified as a chemical exfoliant. Unlike physical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells via mechanical buffing movements, chemical exfoliants penetrate the skin and dissolve the bond that keeps dead skin cells together. Moreover, physical exfoliants may tear and alternate the skin barrier leading to agitation and breakouts. On the other hand, chemical exfoliants work much slower and gently resurface the skin without causing any redness and inflammation.
Salicylic acid, when topically applied on the skin, accelerates the removal of dead cells enabling new cells to grow sooner and preventing pores from clogging up.
Salicylic acid is keratolytic meaning it causes the skin’s outer layer to become looser and shed quicker. With shedding, dead skin cells get removed, which helps to restore skin texture and dullness.
Salicylic acid is also oil-soluble which gives it abilities to pass through the oil layer within the skin and exfoliate deep within pores to remove all blockages. Moreover, it also cleans out excess sebum from pores and decreases the oiliness of the skin. This helps to reduce the number of blackheads, whiteheads, and small red pimples as well as improve the overall appearance of pores.
Products with salicylic acid are recommended for individuals whose skin is prone to breakouts. The ingredient may be too harsh and cause irritations for individuals with dry or sensitive skin. The common side effects of salicylic acid include dryness, burning, and irritation; however, these symptoms only appear in the beginning and should not continue. Salicylic acid can also make the skin more sensitive to sunlight and cause sunburns much easier. Sunscreen should be worn at all times and be part of a daily skincare regime, but with salicylic acid, extra caution should be taken.
The recommended concentration of salicylic acid within a skincare product is unique for each person and varies with the skin condition. The concentration and frequency of usage should be discussed with your dermatologist.